Alkali-FIX™ has been specially formulated to maximise the beneficial tanning and staining qualities of Prescysol™, but works perfectly with all monochrome negatives (except chromogenic) and papers regardless of the developer used.
Developers are alkaline. Stop baths and almost all commercially available fixers are acid. Plunging the film from an alkaline to an acid solution, and the radical ph changes that result can stress the film emulsion; ideally the whole processing procedure should take place in solutions of a similar ph.
We all know what happens to a metal when it is in contact with an acid; the acid reacts with and eats away the metal. Immersing the delicate silver grains of your fine print in acid is not the best thing you can do! The delicate high values are at risk, and you are in danger of burned-out highlights, particularly if your mixing/timing routine is lax. The answer is an alkaline stop (or water bath) and an alkaline fix.
MonochromePhotography.com has the perfect solution with its new formulations of Alkali-STOP™ and Alkali-FIX™.
Alkali-FIX™ has several major advantages over traditional acid fixers:
The use of Alkali-FIX™ shortens washing times considerably which means less potential stress and damage to film and paper emulsions and less water used.
•Alkali-FIX™ will not dissolve image-bearing silver in those delicate highlights.
•Alkali-FIX™ has a much greater capacity than acid fixers.
•There is absolutely no requirement for a hypo-clearing bath with either film or paper when using Alkali-FIX™.
•Films and RC papers are washed to archival standards in only 5 minutes, FB papers in 20 minutes.
•Alkali-FIX™ regulates the ph level of the development process leading to increased permanence of your negatives and prints.
•Improved removal of hypo by-products from the paper fibres means improved toning and less chance of staining.
•Alkali-FIX™ will maximise the tanning and staining qualities of Prescysol™ and other staining developers.
Alkali-FIX™ is superb at retaining those delicate highlights so beautifully produced by lith printing. You should not use a hypo-clearing agent with alkaline fixers!
Fixing films
Dilution for all films is 1 + 4, so to cover a 35mm spiral, mix 60ml Alkali-FIX™ with 240 ml water. (Tap water is fine, but as always, we recommend that you attach a filter to your tap, or filter the water with a domestic carbon-filter water jug). To cover a 120mm spiral, mix 100ml Alkali-FIX™ with 400ml water. Because alkaline fixers are not as aggressive as acid fixers, you should agitate continuously for the full time. Any slight milkyness in the emulsion after the wash means that the film is not completely fixed; simply re-immerse in fixer until it clears and re-wash.
Some films require longer fixing than others; we have tested this fixer for up to 15 minutes without any effect on films or papers. You can’t do that with acid fixers!
After development, use Alkali-STOP™ for 10-30 seconds. Alternatively, run under fresh water for 1 minute, or wash, with constant agitation, in 4-5 changes of fresh water for 10-12 seconds each time.
It is a good idea to perform a quick test for time if you are not using fresh fixer. Cut a small piece from the leader of undeveloped film and agitate in the fixer, making a note of the time it takes to clear completely. Fresh fixer will show clear in the test in about 60 seconds, depending on the film. Once the time to clear reaches 5 minutes the fixer should be discarded, although we recommend not keeping any used fixer (acid or alkali) longer than 24 hours. Fix for twice the clearing time (with fresh fixer, for 3 minutes), and if the clearing time is, say, 2.5 minutes, then fix for 5 minutes. Please note that you should not give extended fixing times with tabular grain films (such as T-Max) to remove the dye if you are using an acid fixer; over-fixing is never a good idea. To remove the dye, let the film stand in three, 5 minute water baths after fixing. Any dye left after that should be removed in the normal wash, but if some still remains after that, just extend the wash time until it is removed.
Wash as normal. Your film will be washed to archival standards in 5 minutes, but you can extend that if you wish to be really sure!
Fixing RC prints
Dilute 1 + 4 for a fixing time of 2 to 4 minutes.
Fixing FB prints
Dilute the stock solution 1+ 4, submerge the paper and agitate continuously for 2-4 minutes.
Capacity
One litre of working solution at 1+ 4 dilution will fix approximately 40 10x8 FB or 80 10x8 RC prints, and at 1+9 dilution will fix approximately 80 10x8 RC prints, although you may wish to reduce these figures by 25% for absolute assurance.
Mixing and solution life
Add the contents of the pack to 750ml water, stirring continuously, and then add water to make up to 1 litre. This is the stock solution. It is very stable and will keep well. Working strength solutions, if unused, will keep for 3 to 4 weeks in a tightly stoppered bottle. We do not recommend keeping used fixer longer than 24 hours, although you can store and use for up to one week.
Caution
Treat all chemicals with caution and keep out of the reach of children. Do not store chemicals in bottles designed for other use, e.g. lemonade bottles. Use gloves when fixing, and wash from the skin with plenty of fresh water. If there is contact with the eyes, wash with plenty of fresh water and seek medical advice. Wipe up spills immediately and wash or swab with clean water. Do not breathe in the powder or dust.
Liability
No liability is accepted by the producer or supplier of this product except for the value of the product itself if faulty. Expressly, no liability can be accepted for any consequential loss or injury howsoever caused. The producer/supplier will be pleased to refund the full purchase price, provided the faulty product is returned within 30 days from date of purchase. Use of the product implies acceptance of these conditions.
© Peter Hogan. No part of this document may be reproduced in any form without written permission.
*We are often asked why we don’t recommend that you keep a working solution of fixer for extended periods. In fact, we don’t recommend that you keep any working solution of any chemical for extended periods unless it is specifically formulated to keep; an old fixer may be fixing (if improperly) but the by-products build up and are almost impossible to remove from the paper fibres. As a developer is used, the by-products build up, and the paper is liable to fog and the blacks degrade. You are likely to suffer the effects sooner rather than later if you subsequently tone your prints! There is no substitute for fresh chemicals; we renew the developer and fix during a printing session if we are printing more than about 12 to 15 sheets of paper. You can keep fixer for longer if you are developing film and there is minimal through-put, although reason suggests that any more than about one week is stretching it… chemicals do oxidise in time and become less effective, so we always recommend you do a clip test on a piece of film leader first!
Some modern fixers are termed ‘Rapid’, and will fix very quickly. This is not the norm, and some people could be seduced into thinking that 30 seconds in the fixer is all that is required. ‘Rapid’ fixers are very aggressive, and not at all what you should be subjecting those fine silver grains to. Older printers know that 4 or 5 minutes in a gentler fixer pays dividends in print and negative quality!
‘If you’re going to do it – do it right!’
Monochrome Photography
63 The Lagger
Chalfont St Giles
Bucks
HP8 4DJ
Fax: 00 44 (0)1494 875972
Email:info@monochromephotography.com
Web Site: www.monochromephotography.com